7.1 Chapter Questions

1. Because the major percentage of Australia's population lives at or near the coast things such as pollution, population growth and introduced plants have becoming higher increasing problems.

2. Because of the pressure of urban development along the coastline has caused a range of geographical issues involving various groups.

3. Population growth. More people are wanting to change the lifestyle of living in the city to living out near the coast.

4. Some towns have imposed residential caps or a population ceiling for their town in an effort to stop over development of the area.

5. Pollution- People are allowing their rubbish to end up in urban stormwater drains which brings all of their rubbish to the beaches causing the water to become intoxicated.

Introduced Plants- People bring over other plants to help sustain things such as sand dunes but these plants then destroy the native vegetation.

Coast Rivers and Lagoons- The use of boats along rivers and in lagoons causes them to become silted which then requires a lot of dredging to keep it healthy again.

Tourism and Recreational Pressures- Tourism is becoming more increasingly popular for the coasts of Australia and many tourists developments and resorts are being placed along the coast. This is putting pressure on the infrastructure and environment and if it is not managed properly sand dunes and beaches may become eroded because of allowed vehicle access.

6. The geographers have to manage residents, tourists and commercial-related activities so that the development of the coastline is sustainable.

7.2 Chapter Questions

1. The wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves.

2. The distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave.

3. Waves out in the ocean take the energy from the wind and create strong rippling effects but closer into the coast and shore the waves start to interact with the sea floor because of the shallow water.

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6. Spilling waves break far from the shore with beaches with gentle slopes which are good for body surfing. Plunging waves break on the beach and is moderately steep which is great for board riders as they form tubes and surging waves occur on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it.

7. Wind swell is where waves travel only a short distance before they hit land where as ground swell is formed after waves have travelled across greater distances of ocean before hitting the coast.

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9. Hi, if you want to swim in the beaches of Australia then you should know the 3 different waves that could occur and who they are best suited for. Firstly, there are spilling waves that break far from the shore with beaches that have gentle slopes and are perfect for people who like to body surfing. The next type of wave is a plunging wave. These waves break on the beach and are moderately steep which is great for board riders as they form tubes or barrels that surfers love to go into. The last type of wave is a surging wave which only occurs on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. These waves can be dangerous and should only be swam in if you are a very fit and able swimmer. Enjoy!!

10. Today was quite a busy day as although the cyclone warnings have created massive waves it was very hot and this attracted hundreds of people to the beach. The cyclone's wind has been bringing massive surging waves towards shore and I alone had to make 48 saves and over 75% of them were because of the swimmers not being able to cope with the on coming amount of waves that were hitting the shore line. The cyclone has made the waters very choppy further out past the rocks and a rescue boat was called after a speed boat hit a wave too hard and the boat and its two passengers were catapulted around 100 metres. Luckily the female only broke her neck and the male suffered major bruising as the rescue boats came within seconds of the crash as they were on their usual 1pm patrol. The cyclone started to bring in its terrible weather and by 3:30pm the weather was awful with gusty winds and pouring rain which took away all of the people at the beach and made my job 99% easier.

7.3 Chapter Questions

1. Erosion, transportation and deposition.

2. Wave refraction causes the wave energy that is usually evenly distributed along the entire wave is concentrated in particular areas and less intense in others.

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4. Sea stacks

5. Hydraulic action, corrasion and corrosion.

6. The erosion-accretion cycle is when eroding waves take large amounts of sand out into the ocean where it forms a sand bar and then smaller constructive waves eventually take all of the sand back into its usual state.

7. Wind, waves and prevailing ocean currents.

8. Coastal dunes

9. Coastal dunes are formed by wind which blows the deposited sand landward which is then trapped by low-lying vegetation. The vegetation allows the sand to be trapped and create coastal dunes.

10.

Longshore drift is the process of waves moving up towards the beach in a zigzag motion with the swash help losing the momentum that the waves brought up from the ocean. This process helps move sand along the beach.






11.
 
A beach was a depositional landforms that was formed by eroded rock and shell material that are accumulation of sand that occur along the shoreline. Beaches can change through the erosion of sand being deposited off shore from storm waves.




         Sea stacks are created by water eroding away coastal headlands so much that stacks of rocks are left over and shaped in weird forms.

Wave cut platforms are eroded away by destructive waves hitting against the cliff face, causing undercutting between the high and low water marks, mainly as a result of corrasion and hydraulic power, creating a wave-cut notch. This notch then enlarges into a cave. The waves undermine this portion until the roof of the cave cannot hold due to the pressure and freeze-thaw weathering acting on it, and collapses, resulting in the cliff retreating landward.

Coastal dunes are formed by wind which blows the deposited sand landward which is then trapped by low-lying vegetation. The vegetation allows the sand to be trapped and create coastal dunes.













12. Foredunes protect the coastal areas by not allowing any water coming into the fragile dune vegetation located on the hind dunes and eroding them away.

13. a) On the Great Ocean Road in Victoria.
b) They are a popular tourist destination as the sea stacks have been created over 20 million years.
c) They were formed by waves eroding the headlands away so much that the only thing left is part of the headlands.
d) London Bridge was a sea stack that was shaped like a bridge but it was eroded  so much that it could not stand up and collapsed itself.
e) I think that it could not have been prevented as the water is not going to stop eroding the stacks.

14. The twelve apostles are sea stacks that have been created by ocean waves eroding away the headland over 20 million years that all that has remained is parts of the headland in stacks of rock. Sadly, these sea stacks will eventually become eroded so much near the ocean sea level that they will collapse and fall down into the ocean floor.

15. The local council had decided to buy back a property located on the headland and a neighbouring foredune that is very subject to severe erosion. The residents believe that the local council is depriving them of their spectacular views, relaxed lifestyle and valuable property. If the local council buys the property to help conserve the foredunes and the surrounding environment then the residents should not be as disappointed and sad about the buy-back but if the council believes that apartments or other construction is the way to go and attract people to the area because of the view then the residents should be very disappointed in the council for their decision as foredunes and headlands like these are very rare and unique to live near and should be considered at the council meetings on what their decision to do with the land should be and take in consideration the local residents of the area.









   

Teahupoo

Teahupoo (pronounced Chow-poo) is a village on the South-West coast of the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia and produces one of the world's biggest waves. Teahupoo holds numerous surf and body board competitions such as Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition that is an annual event at Teahupoo. The giant waves which are created at Teahupoo and can get as high as 70ft due to the bend of the wave when it hits the reef below the sea level. Unlike other places such as Jaws, the di reef below the sea level at Teahupoo is very shallow so when energy from waves that are entering Teahupoo in deep water and it suddenly hits a shallow reef it instantly breaks and bring with it huge amounts of water making the wave not only very high but very thick as well. Teahupoo is best surfed between April to October when the wind and rain is frequent especially when it is in the cyclone season.

   

 
 



This diagram here gives us an idea of how shallow Teahupoo really is at only 3 feet (1 metre) which means that when the enormous waves from the pacific suddenly drop onto a very shallow reef this creates very big and very thick waves. 

Big Wave Video

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? They come from the North Pacific where low pressure and high pressure systems are very close together.
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? They should know the wind speed, wave period from wave to wave 

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. They form by the waves energy being refracted and bent  by the sea floor.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? The waves are formed by low and high pressure systems being very close together.
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? The sea floor under mavericks is filled with reefs which bends the waves bring the waves energy into one place creating the massive waves.
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? It is stored from the surface to half the wave length. 
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” They have to try and get past the part where the wave crashed first before getting off. Don't try and fight the wave if you get dunked.