1. The wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves.
2. The distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave.
3. Waves out in the ocean take the energy from the wind and create strong rippling effects but closer into the coast and shore the waves start to interact with the sea floor because of the shallow water.
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6. Spilling waves break far from the shore with beaches with gentle slopes which are good for body surfing. Plunging waves break on the beach and is moderately steep which is great for board riders as they form tubes and surging waves occur on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it.
7. Wind swell is where waves travel only a short distance before they hit land where as ground swell is formed after waves have travelled across greater distances of ocean before hitting the coast.
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9. Hi, if you want to swim in the beaches of Australia then you should know the 3 different waves that could occur and who they are best suited for. Firstly, there are spilling waves that break far from the shore with beaches that have gentle slopes and are perfect for people who like to body surfing. The next type of wave is a plunging wave. These waves break on the beach and are moderately steep which is great for board riders as they form tubes or barrels that surfers love to go into. The last type of wave is a surging wave which only occurs on very steep beaches where the waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. These waves can be dangerous and should only be swam in if you are a very fit and able swimmer. Enjoy!!
10. Today was quite a busy day as although the cyclone warnings have created massive waves it was very hot and this attracted hundreds of people to the beach. The cyclone's wind has been bringing massive surging waves towards shore and I alone had to make 48 saves and over 75% of them were because of the swimmers not being able to cope with the on coming amount of waves that were hitting the shore line. The cyclone has made the waters very choppy further out past the rocks and a rescue boat was called after a speed boat hit a wave too hard and the boat and its two passengers were catapulted around 100 metres. Luckily the female only broke her neck and the male suffered major bruising as the rescue boats came within seconds of the crash as they were on their usual 1pm patrol. The cyclone started to bring in its terrible weather and by 3:30pm the weather was awful with gusty winds and pouring rain which took away all of the people at the beach and made my job 99% easier.
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